This was a time-consuming episode to get together! A lot going on!
In this episode, we'll veneer the panels for the drawer tiers. I want to do the panels now so I can determine the size of the drawer webbing that will be between the panels in each tier. And also, it is time consuming to go through 12 panels (cuz I'm making 2 units) so while I do some of the panels, I can be making progress on laying out the webbing.
This episode is longer than most because I try to go through everything. If you've done some veneering, some parts will make excellent bathroom breaks. But if you haven't, you'll get to see it all including some design decisions at the end for how to do the book-and-end match (4-way bookmatch) of the Maple burl.
A reference Paul Schürch often in the video as most everything I know of veneering and marquetry came from his DVDs and workshop. Sure, there were other books, but they only confirmed what I learned. Here, I reviewed the workshop I took with Paul Schürch; give that entry a look for details on his DVDs, which are fantastic.
Next up, preparing the drawer tiers for the panels, figuring out the drawer webbing, and... oh, yeah, there's a column in the back and some Nickel-plated rods! hmm... :)
Thanks for watching and thanks for the patience on these longer sections!
Saturday, August 4, 2012
Angle Madness! - Veneering the Panels
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
Naturally, I like woodworking as a hobby, but an ice hockey tournament will easily get me out of the shop :)
Posts
Great post.
Thanks learned a lot.
How are you gonna clamp those boxes together for gluing?
Tim
Great video. I love veneers. About 18 months ago I bought Certainly Wood's "Marquetry Pack" of veneers. I've done a bunch of pieces out of it but have barely made a dent in it. I also bought some dyed Veneers from Paul which were great for a couple of projects I did.
One question - the six hour clamp time. Was that recommend by the glue you were using? With he cold press and yellow glue I use(yes I often use just tightbond on my marquetry) I only keep pieces in the vacuum press for an hour or two.
Looking forward to seeing what comes next on your project.
Thanks, guys,
The boxes will be glued up in pieces: sides first, drawer webbing second then the panels cut and placed. For the sides, I'll likely use the Bridge City miter stitch although these joints didn't require any force or re-mortising so they shouldn't require a lot of clamping force.
I just got another box of veneers from CertainlyWood moments ago. A good company.
The Better Bond glue Im using states to keep under the press for 4-6 hours at 70ºF; warmer it takes less time. I'd rather make sure it is ready to come out so usually leave it longer, which works well in a hobbyist schedule anyway.
-sigh- next up on the project is to fix some veneer bubbles. Only found out afterword that my backer had 2 dents. Not sure what I did to it. Gonna switch to MCP ("Melamine") for the burl boards.
Hi PM
when you say body filler for the "C" plywood... do you mean bondo or wood filler?
Hi, rroster,
I used Bondo. Any 2-part wood filler would work (including those filler sticks you blend after cutting off a hunk; those are 2-part fillers as well). You want something that will harden like a body filler as opposed to just drying like many wood fillers. A water-based evaporative-cure filler (like TimberMate) wouldn't work well in this application as it isn't rock hard plus it would soften when you apply the veneer glue (contains water).
A better thing to do is find a vendor in your area that can get real 2-sided MDO; for me it would have involved a large cost-prohibitive order.
thx PM, as I have a wide-spread damanged area, I'll try bondo. (did you use regular bondo or the premium stuff?)
in your Aug 6 comment, u mentioned u'd use MCP in future 4 burl ... will the veneer glue stick strongly 2 that product?
Cheers,
Rui
I just used the regular Bondo, Rui. The key is to just spread it across and force it in any damaged areas but not worry much about keeping it level. You'll waste too much time and it does shrink a bit; much better to let it harden over night then hit it with a sander to get a great surface. Looks... hmm... different :) but all the better once the veneer is on!
Since I had 12 backs of single-sided MDO to patch, I'd often mix the bondo directly on the board in a smooth area then push across the long grooves. Just don't let some unmixed resin get into a big pit as you might find it doesn't set, but it worked for me.
The MCP comment was about using that as a caul; I was using an offcut of MDO but later found I had two dents in the MDO that would telegraph after glue-up (I wasn't using the canvas on those that showed the problem; my larger piece of canvas arrived after the first couple came out of the bag).
So... don't try veneering to MCP! It won't work! But great caul...
ah, I get it... I was picturing it as a substraight... yikes!
have a gr8 w/e