This video crib sheet has two tips. The first is to use the quick-height setting on the side of the fence even when that doesn't center the tenon. Actually, even when I set the fence by hand, I never set it dead center for reasons demonstrated in the video (and that have saved a frantic glue-up or two).
The second tip discusses drawboring. Drawboring a tenon involves using a peg through the tenon and an offset hole that causes the tenon to pull the joint tight and hold it there. Fantastic for strength and it's clamp-free! The tenons for the original Domino are, to me, too small to be used for drawboring, but the XL's tenons are much larger and heftier and seem to drawbore pretty well. Now if you go back and see my video on making oversized mortises with the XL quickly and easily, you'll see a huge amount of drawbore potential.
Well, not to draw this out and bore you :) here's the video!
For disclosure, I received the Domino XL early as part of the Test Drive program, which requires testers to return the full kit on June 1, 2012 or allows the testers to purchase it at a small discount.
Wednesday, April 18, 2012
Domino Crib Sheet - Prefer the Quick-Height Setting and Domino Drawboring
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
Naturally, I like woodworking as a hobby, but an ice hockey tournament will easily get me out of the shop :)
Posts
Can I drawbore with 4mm Dominoes?
Chris
Can I use 4mm Dominoes to drawbore larger Dominoes?
Chris
Hi,
like your videos. Do you have one that demonstrates inserting dominoes in scribed joints: router panel door cutters have moulded and scribed edges; I wondered if it is possible to pre bore rails and stiles, before routing, so they can locate dominoes 'precisely' after these joints are cut. I should imagine Domizilla would be the prefered tool, as the mortices would be reduced on moulding.
regards
Phil Wood
Thanks, Phil!
I don't have a video exactly on that, but your solution is the right one: pre-bore then run the cope/stick profiles.
The video on angles talks a bit about an alternate way to mate two boards with a mitered edge. It's a variant of what you are suggesting and it definitely works; just have to bore further into the coped side. It would make a significantly stronger door frame than just relying on the cope/stick joint as it has significant end grain.