Adding 4 1/2" to your MFT's Cross-cut Capacity

Now, I wrote this and photographed this using my MFT-1080.  I believe the same process will net you more space on your MFT/3, but you'll need to read this and see if your rail fence clamp will allow it.  Please post your results in the comments...

The Festool MFT-1080 table is genius, but it also has a hair over 24" cross-cut capacity.  For whatever reason, my recent projects have all had big panels or drawer front panels that easily exceeded this limit.  Granted, Qwas dogs and rail dogs will get the job done a different way, but it isn't the same.  It just isn't.

I honestly never use the miter gauge on the table.  A bit awkward and usually I do those cuts on the table saw or, if the panel is big, I draw the line and put the guide on it.  If it's 45°, 30°, or 60°... I use the Qwas dogs.

First up, a photo of the end result.  The mark of the old fence position is clearly visible and the frontmost edge is 4 1/2" ahead of the current location.  When I removed the angle unit, I bought another fence rail clamp and put my original and this second clamp in the T-slot channel in the back of the table.  The fence slips in.  Tighten.  Marvel at the newly found space.

This fence rail clamp doesn't seem to be a replacement part you can order with a single clever 6-digit number.  Instead, you have to order all the individual parts.  If you visit Festool's EKAT system, you can find the exploded part under your MFT table and see exactly what to order, quantity, and price.

Naturally, you want to ensure the fence is square to the guide rail.  Now, I align my guide rail using Qwas dogs and a spacer.  I also had a spacer for aligning the fence with the miter unit to the dog holes.  Now I created another to align this miter-less fence to the holes.
I squeeze the fence to the alignment bar (a 30mm wide bar of MDF) and tighten the clamps.  It holds surprisingly well even when I banged a huge panel against it a few times to see if I could misalign the fence.  The one minor complaint I have is that tightening both clamps up slightly lifted the front of the fence.  I may tinker with a spacing washer in the rail fence clamps to avoid this.
I left the alignment bar there, dropped the flag stop and made a cut to eventually scoot the fence over so the flag stop's position on my metric/imperial tape was dead on.
Tonight, I was crosscutting a large panel that will become the stock for drawer fronts of a built-in I'm making.  It was 27.5" wide and cleanly fit on the table.  Voilà, my new crosscut capacity.

While I was ordering all these parts, I ordered 2 more (3 total) fence rail clamps and a second fence.  I want to tinker to see what other uses I can get out of it.  Here you can see how the second fence can span the table and be locked into place on the edges.  Granted, there isn't enough play to allow setting any angle you want.

Lastly, while you are ordering spare parts, order feather keys, washers, and cheese head screws to place things in your top and side T-channels.  I have one set with the short cheese-head screw that you use to set a stop for the front guide-rail position. I have it positioned in the side track so I can put a spare fence rail clamp bumped up to it and use the angle unit in mid-field.  I may never use it, but it is already aligned.

The cheese-head screws are available in a couple other lengths (dig around in the spare parts :)  I bought several other lengths along with feather keys and washers as they lock into the side so much better than a random hex nut and will provide excellent attachment for jigs and fixtures.